One of the biggest challenges, when trying to use a MIDI controller with Lightroom is to find a controller that works well for Lightroom. As already said in the first part of this series, MIDI controllers are optimized for sound production, not for photo editing.
So when you start you will face a chicken-egg problem: You do not know yet how well it works and which parameters can work best for editing, while you do not have a controller yet to try it out.
In this article I would like to go over some basics and then suggest a couple of selected controllers I stumbled upon on my search for the perfect controller.
Editing images with Software like Lightroom typically involves changing parameters like exposure, contrast, highlights, shadows, and so on for more than 90% of your work. These parameters are controlled using sliders that you have to drag with your Mouse - sliders that emulate physical controls.
Why not use such physical controls like sliders or control dials directly? Instead of using the mouse to point to virtual controls and focus on these virtual controls, why not just use a physical control and focus on the effect on the picture while changing the values instead?
Trust me - once you get accustomed to using physical controls to directly control an image's parameters instead of fiddling with these virtual slides in Lightroom you'll never want to go back. It's just way more natural and more efficient. Your workflow will benefit a lot, once you focus on the image while blindly using a physical controller to adjust the parameters until the image looks right instead of focusing your eye on the mouse pointer hovering over the slider and looking at the image afterwards to check whether the current position fits your desired result or not.
When you are visiting Andalusia in Spain, one thing you should not miss is visiting at least one of the Pueblos Blancos - the "White Towns". When you look at the pictures it should be obvious, why they are called this way.
So you just got a new Fujifilm X100F? Congratulations on your new, great camera. You might think about, which accessories you could need? Well, maybe I can help you a bit. Here is my personal list of five essential accessories for the X100F that complements the camera ideally for my personal preference of shooting.
Once you start with cabled tethering from your camera to your computer you'll soon want to look into a solution for a strain relief for the cable on your camera side to not only protect you from accidental disconnections, but even more from damaging your camera's internal connector port.
Pretty soon you will stumble over the JerkStopper by Tether Tools which is basically a small plastic part that cramps around the cable with a short cord that is bound to the strap eyelet of your camera. Well, that little thing is everything else than cheap at over $16 currently.
Some cameras like the Canon 5D Mark IV also come with a cable protector that works perfectly for this camera. But that is a very rare case for a very limited number of cameras.
Luckily a lot of people have published similar DIY solutions, which are cheaper and fit every camera. Just search on YouTube and you will find plenty of DIY alternatives. Here I would like to present you a slightly different approach that works very well for me.
In general I really like the usability and ergonomics of my Canon 6D. The menu system is very easy and intuitive to understand and the camera is a pleasure to hold in the hand with very well thought button placements.
However so far I have experienced two unexpected side effects with settings that took me quite a while to figure out as the relationships between the implication and the actual setting do not sound logical to me at first glance.
The aim of this post is to explain how to set up wireless tethered shooting with a Canon Camera using the built-in Wi-Fi. I am using a laptop with Microsoft Windows 10, a Canon 6D as camera, the original Canon EOS Utilities for transmitting and displaying the latest picture, and finally Adobe Lightroom for culling.
The hardest part in the whole process unfortunately is to get your camera paired with your computer. Before we try to setup the network you first have to install the EOS utility on your laptop.
And it looks near perfect now. All smears are gone. Not a single grain of dust is visible. Great job! You put the lens cap on and a few hours later when you take it off you see - oh no!!! - grains of dust and fuzz are back. Even though you had the lens cap on all the time.
This could be because you have forgotten to clean something you might not have thought of - something I frequently forget and need to keep reminding myself: The inside of the lens cap.
Note that this is an older post I've posted on my older blog around software development earlier in April 2012. As I am about to switch off this older blog, I am re-posting this here with some updates as it is still a valid topic around photography.
Recently I've talked with a friend about the legal notice [de] with added costs against a Facebook user. A third user has posted an image of a rubber duck on that users timeline. However this image violated the copyright of a copyright owner. Yes, you've read correctly: In Germany you can be sued for a photo that someone else has posted on your Facebook timeline.
This triggered the question whether it should be allowed to sue unlicensed usages of only private usage context? Should it be allowed that private users are sued for downloading and posting a picture on their Facebook page?
Have you ever asked yourself, what's the best focal length for your first or your next prime lens? In case you are just starting with photography with zoom lenses only and never set a focal length consciously Adobe Lightroom may be able to tell you.